14 June 2010

World Wise Schools Program

PC has just required that all PCVs participate in the WWS program. Matching each volunteer with a teacher in America, the program allows kids in the U.S. to learn more about a volunteer's unique experience abroad.

Likewise, by keeping in touch with a class, the volunteer is forced to reflect on his/her experiences and fulfill one of the cultural exchange goals of PC. After corresponding with a certain teacher and her classes for the past 2 school years, I am so grateful to participate in this program. The kids' letters, photos, and questions really brighten my days and make me so proud to be a PCV. There are brief moments I question being in PC, but reading the kids' letters really lifts my spirits. Thank you to all teachers in America who are willing to participate in this WWS program!

To learn more about being a part of WWS, go to: http://www.peacecorps.gov/wws/correspond/.


"Last day of school! (Woo-hoo!) When we did our memory books, and the page asked for "important events of the year," the class immediately said, "Writing to Kat!"

Thanks for the wonderful job you did in reaching the kids. I look forward to being in touch next year. Have a great summer!" -my WWS teacher


(Students' drawings hanging in my kitchen)

14 May 2010

Even Celebrities Have to Wait


I should know, because, in fact, I am one. This afternoon, the president and all the officials of the largest artisan association in town waited one and a half hours for me to show up at the Chamber of Artisans before commencing the certificate ceremony (for some event that I and my high status can’t be bothered knowing the details). The regional director of the Chamber of Artisans was there too, and yeah, we shot the sh*t one afternoon earlier this week.

Why was I late? I didn’t realize I was a celebrity, so I didn’t think the invitation to attend and my appearance were that important to those at the craft fair event. Thought I’d pop into Maroc Telecom-located just across the street-and pay my phone/internet bill first.

Any PCV with home internet can tell you horror stories about Maroc Telecom, a company that basks in its monopoly status and fails in almost everything it does. Even though I was supposed to be the next customer “in line,” I ended up waiting more than half an hour as the man before me debated which cell phone to buy. The employees in the back drank tea. (don’t mess with a tea break). Another employee directed all customers away from her, except for two loud kids whom she greeted warmly and gave money too. It’s fabulous that the employees put family before work—some American companies can take note. There’s a machine that prints numbered tickets so you know when it’s your turn for “assistance.” I had #44, but the screen flashed #48…As I waited, however, a few of my fans greeted me—one even yelling “Zenab! La bes?!” from outside the store.

So, celebrity status has no perks at Maroc Telecom. I also was carrying a wooden plank (to make a spice rack at my house), and that had no intimidating effects on the MT employees either.

Have to admit though, I think I’m too modest to be a celebrity. I don’t like the paparazzi and forced photo shoots. Nor the employees who hang photos of me on their office walls. Nor the kids who give me candy. Nor the shout-outs as I pass people by. Nor the people fighting over me to come to couscous at their house. Nope, not at all.

*There were so many different levels of sarcasm and irony in this entry. I kind of confused myself. Long story short, Maroc Telecom sucks. And this Det Norske Veritas company that certified MT's quality...I don't trust their consulting!

13 May 2010

1/4 Thru!


I'm starting to feel like my town of 40,000 homies isn't so large after all. My "ohana" keeps getting bigger and bigger...and yes, it's a good thing.

Happy 6 months in-service (also feeling deja vu...) to me! Only a year and a half to go, not that anyone's counting. Or maybe I'll live in B-town forever...

Mom, what do you think? :)

25 April 2010

MaM #3

3 blogs, 3 days in a row! (don't get used to it...)

It's been awhile since the last MaM, but here we go!

Name: Naima

Age: 18

Family: 2 grandfathers, parents, 2 siblings. But...

Marital Status: Engaged, and lives with fiance's family. Her fiance proposed to her by asking to borrow her pen, to write down her number!

Daily Activities: Making sugary, herbal mint tea in the morning and afternoon; Cleaning and mopping the house and family storefronts; Playing with her future nephew-in-law; Preparing three meals a day and cleaning up afterward; Afternoon nap

Interests: The color purple, Jewelry, Shopping for jellaba fabric and shoes, Looking at fashion magazine photos, Dancing (in private), Moroccan Arabic and Berber music

Any questions for Naima? Let me know and I'll pass them on to her!

24 April 2010

A Man with Hair


Today, I found out that Hamid, one of the artisan teachers at the woodwork association, committed suicide yesterday. Some of his closest friends also work at this association, and although the news shocked them, their faces showed no emotional distress. We snacked on Dove chocolates (compliments of my mom) and green wheat stalks, while basking in the late afternoon sun and talking about American products like IcyHot.

A friend of another artisan (a potential translator for me) asked if I knew Hamid. I told him a story about a time when a bunch of the artisan guys and I were talking about marriage. Only Hamid and another artisan had thick, dark hair, and they were the only two unmarried men. We joked that marriage caused baldness or gray hair, and we proved the hair/marriage test with all the guys in the artisanat center. It was a fun moment that made me feel a bit closer to the association members, and today we had a second bittersweet laugh over it. Hamid was 36 years old, an age that reminded me of someone else dear to me. His story is neither the first death nor suicide I heard about since moving here to B-town, but unlike the men who knew him better than I did, my eyes were wet.

Regardless, life goes on. With my new translator, I interviewed another artisan. Learned that while the association members all share the same workshop space and collectively teach 20 boys the trade, each of them had his own customers. I was surprised because I thought they operated as one association, not individually with single orders. I asked if this environment created any internal competition, especially since each artisan had a family to support with the income generated from these sales.

Hamid’s best friend jumped into the conversation and said he “haites” the others—joking and charading that he both “hates” and “hits.” The artisans believed there was no competition between them because they are friends first. I got a list of reasons why they’re proud to be part of the association and its benefits. Even at craft fairs, the products with the best quality will sell. WOW-what a concept.

It was getting dark, and Hamid’s bff asked if I wanted to interview him next. He said he needed some time to cope first with his friend’s passing, which I almost forgot about because of the interview’s light-hearted atmosphere. He asked if we could talk in three days instead…

Although I was invited to dinner with Hamid’s family and friends, I declined—feeling like the attention due to the family would instead shift to me and afraid that I may start crying once I met the women. What’s the culturally appropriate thing to do in this kind of situation??? I wanted to find out more information online. Instead, I found out a friend from high school just gave birth to a little boy! What a ___…not a coincidence, not a small world, but…I’m loss for words…God provides, that’s what the artisans said.

23 April 2010

Friday Night Out

This evening, my friend asked me if I wanted to do a tour of town and exercise off some of couscous lunch. With her and her future sister-in-law as my body guards, we linked arms and enjoyed a harassment-free walk and shopping trip.

For a moment, I thought I was back in America, or definitely NOT in a PC country. I experienced a different side of B-town. We looked at nail polish, mp3 players, and handbags. As we tried on cute shoes and trendy western clothes in boutiques, the time flew by. I tried on a pair of skinny jeans (the largest size in the store), and it was still too small…. We also shopped for more jellaba fabric, trading advice on what designs and colors were zweyn. I taught the words bling bling and adorable. Earlier this week, I was afraid my fashion sense had adapted to Moroccan standards, but after this trip, I realize I haven’t reached the full glitter/rhinestone/accessory galore appreciation yet. Alhumdullah. We looked at new clothes until the stores shut down.

Tonight was the latest I’ve ever been out in B-town. It was also nice to “let my hair down” and let out that suppressed, frivolous girl part of me OUTSIDE of the house WITH my Moroccan friends. It was interesting to see hanuts closed, the street vendors all packed up, coffee shops empty, no football cheering or hear music, and the male street loiters gone. Even bumped into a friendly, drunk guy!

What time did I get home? A bit after 10pm. Exciting nights* here in B-town!

*During summer and Ramadan, nightlife is rumored to be bustling. I’ll keep ya updated. Also, since coming back from Kesh (and the successful workshop/craft fair there), the neighborhood boys have been good :)

13 April 2010

Boys are Made of Frogs and Snails


Girls are made of sugar and spice and all that’s nice. At least, the girls in my neighborhood are. Ever since I moved into my house at New Year’s, they greet me, kiss my cheeks, and are so polite. Sometimes, the little boys do the same.

There are a couple though, that get a huge kick out of banging on my door and running away, throwing rocks at my door and running away, leaving candy and beer packaging on my door, peeking thru the letter dispenser, and yelling through my windows “How are you? I am fine!”/”You are sexy!”/”What is your name? Are you fine?”

Two American friends stayed at my house this weekend, and, on top of the door pranks, some boys decided to yell, “F*UCK YOU.” Wow…that was a shock.

So today, when I heard prank knocking (which usually happens the most only when other Americans are at my site…so the boys leave a great impression on them), I decided to find the culprits.

They were playing at the end of a walkway, and they saw me approach. I wasn’t sure if these boys were the boys who banged on my door, but when they started to back away, I knew they were guilty. They ran away. In my ankle-length skirt, I sprinted after them. Men, who thought the boys stole something from me, ran after me. Unfortunately, it was nighttime and there were many narrow walkways, and we lost them. I told the men why I was running after the boys, and they told me not to worry—boys are only boys. It reminded me of my first trip to Casablanca, where a man grabbed my butt and I yelled at him in English. Other men ran after him, thinking he stole from me, but they stopped after I told them he only grabbed my butt. Great set of values, I thought.

So I was surprised when a woman knocked on my door later that night. She said she saw me run after the boys, and she asked why I did that. I told her about the immature harassment (knowing that some PCVs have to put up with worse), and that it’s not a big deal for her or me. She told me she knows the boys, and asked if I’d like to visit their houses. …YES.

She kindly greets the women who answered the doors, they exchange a flurry of pleasant-sounding words that I can’t catch, a boy’s brought out (not meeting my eyes), and he’s told to kiss my cheek. As we leave the houses, I hear shouting and hitting. My neighbor tells me she would also tell the boys’ teachers, who will also hit the boys…After almost 2 years of living in “Africa,” I’m immune to hitting kids as means of discipline. Wonder if the prank knocks will continue? She also warmly invited me to her house and enforced that we live in a calm, good neighborhood. Yay, neighborhood watch program.

In other recent news, I had the pleasure of participating in a week-long English immersion camp in Meknes, sponsored by the Ministry of Youth and PC. Met other PCVs and had fun running around. 100 new people know about Honolululu (yes, 3 lu's). I and friends visiting from Namibia travelled through the lovely towns of Chefchaouen and Fes for a few days. Got to eat mousse in Azrou again. Plan on heading to Kesh tomorrow for a craft fair. Been organizing the one-day workshop on selling well at craft fairs for about 50 artisans, and I think I don’t have anything left to be stressed out about. Don’t worry mom, pictures on fbook to come soon, inshallah.

Life is good.