13 March 2011

Let Me Tell You a Fictitious Story


There once was a small, affluent neighborhood, respected throughout America for its hospitality, patriotism, and tradition. Grandmas and grandpas who grew up as neighbors kindly greeted each other while children safely played together in the streets. Families knew each other, prayed together, and always had an extra baking sheet to lend to a neighbor in need.

One day, a strange, little girl rented a house next to the Church, and sure enough, everyone in town soon heard of her. Who was she? What was she doing all alone? How could she afford that house? Why did she come here? She dressed in pajamas and KKK robes, and she never appeared quite together. While her hair and skin were beautiful, she gave off a fetid smell; and although she was always courteous, she barely spoke English. She didn't seem to really care about her neighbors and never spent more than five minutes talking to anyone. No one in town could understand her, but they tried to be warm and amiable toward her anyway.

This girl, named Khrgrthja or Shfvtiqla (no one could pronounce her foreign name), refused the neighbors' invitations to tea or dinner. Every so often, she accepted an invite, but she never returned the favor. Sometimes, she would just disappear from town for a week or two. No one knew where she went or if she'd be back.

There were a few homes that the girl actually visited routinely, like the one Hispanic family in this WASP town or the widowed old lady, Mary, who lived alone. Although amused by her endearing company, these neighbors still could not fully understand her. They gathered that she could comprehend their English, but she had a harder time speaking it. Even after a year in town, the girl's language improvements were small. She seemed harmless, well-intentioned, and perhaps a bit retarded; and they told all the neighbors that. Once, the girl told Mary she was going to visit Russia (of all places!), and Mary jokingly asked her to bring back some caviar. A month later, the girl gave her some cucumbers.

Little by little, the girl started acting weirdly. She started keeping her door open, releasing foul kitchen smells. She played her loud, strange music during neighborhood block parties and funeral wakes. She threw rubbish and old bathroom water out on the street. Sometimes, she actually aimed to splash the innocent children playing near her.

Drug addicts and mentally unstable people living on society's fringe started passing through town more. They seemed enthralled by the new girl. Some mornings, neighbors noticed that the girl left beer bottles and scraps of food on her doorstep. Fortunately, a good Samaritan neighbor would discretely discard the rubbish in hopes that the children didn't notice it. If anything, the community prided itself on how well the children were raised, and the community would not allow this girl to demoralize them.

Yet, she started yelling at the children, as if the children were to blame for the beer bottles. These poor kids would run home crying. She even approached parents to accuse them of raising liars and imbeciles.

One mother had enough of the crazy girl's disrespectful behavior and reprimanded her. She yelled that the girl was actually the liar and idiot, and she should leave the neighborhood in peace. Neighbors restrained the woman from rebuking the girl further, reminding her of the town's good values and God's graces. The menfolk actually apologized to the girl for the woman's behavior, to the outrage of all the women. Regardless, all neighbors sensed that the once-close-knit community was no longer the same after the weird girl arrived.

04 March 2011

Let's Make a Deal

Last year, a pretty boisterous woman I just met rattled off a list of things she wanted from me: "Give me your skirt!...Give me your bag!...Give me your nose ring!...Give me your hair!...How do you keep your skin white and smooth? Tell me!...Give me your sandals!" PCVs know very well this scenario. I joked with the woman that if I gave her everything that I had, I would be naked and mskina. She told me that she would give me the polka-dot jellaba she was wearing. I told her that I had no boobs and that my gut was much smaller than hers. She replied that we needed to try on each other's clothes first, and she laughed--thinking this was the end of this conversation.

She didn't expect me to take her up on her offer. A fan of polka dots, I would have happily traded my old Gap top and Ross skirt for her jellaba. The hostess, Fatima, made the men leave the salon as we exchanged outfits. Of course, since nakedness is not interesting, all the women stayed in the room as we swapped clothes. Even though the jellaba fit me and my skirt had an elastic waist, the woman whose jellaba I was wearing said it was shameful for me to give her my American (therefore, new and expensive) clothes. I called her bluff, but I was really hoping she was sincere.

Apparently, this woman (Kbira) is friends with my friend's mom's sister, and we met up again by chance every day this week. Kbira started asking again for my clothes, earrings, etc., and I sighed over this all-too-familiar-dialogue. I didn't recognize her until she asked if I still had my black and pink skirt. REDEMPTION! I put my poker face on and nonchalantly, we started chatting about other topics.

Every female PCV reaches a point in her service when local women feel comfortable enough to talk about...sex. Yeah, baby. It's always interesting to me how the women/girls first make sure they are in a confidential area (aka no men and children around) and then breach the topic. Most girls (virgins) I know get giggly over the thought of kissing a boy on the mouth and roll over in nervous laughter when they talk about sex: but their ears are wide open. Some unmarried women have confessed to me that they *(they motion putting their index finger into the other hand's fist)* and how it made them feel. I've heard how some married women lost their virginity to their husbands. Some women think sex is pleasurable, while other women think it's only to please the man and make babies.

For such a hshuma topic, I'm always amazed at how witty women can be as they include laughter into the conversation. One of my favorite things about Morocco is the culture's encouragement and ability to joke around. Depending on my relationship with the women, I may reply in different ways when asked personal questions. With Kbira, I made outlandish statements (ie, I actually have a penis, prostitution is my work, etc.) and we concocted elongated scenarios from them (ie with the penis: hence me not going to the hammam, hence me leaving my family to come to Morocco, hence me never wearing short tops...). Kbira also told me she had a penis, so we were like sisters. At the same time, I could clarify her notions about Americans (like most of us have sex by the age of 13), without singling me out.

Kbira then surprised me by apologizing for her earlier actions. Not knowing what she was referring to, she told me that she brought her polka dot jellaba and wanted me to have it for free. Wow. I remembered she had a jellaba that I liked, but I forgot what it looked like. As I'm typing, my black and pink skirt is ready for her to pick up on my table. I'm excited for summer to come so I can wear the lightweight jellaba.
(Our friend, Rebha, and Kbira wearing jellaba button earrings my ladies made for the upcoming craft fairs.)

I actually opened blogger to tell you a story about my door: it has a mind of its own. Twice, it locked me inside my house for no reason. Passerbyers had to call a locksmith for me. This evening, it only opened after the 4th person tried my key. I've been told to feed my lock olive oil to appease it...If it's a Moroccan door, that should work.

In other news, Fatiha and I found vintage Chanel bags at souk yesterday for less than a dollar each. More awww-worthy, Fatiha's mom took our photo at the marketplace: her first time ever taking a photograph!

01 March 2011

Happy 50th Birthday!

(Swag from PC to commemorate the 50 years)

When I applied for PC in 2007, I expected two years of living in a small, isolated village: immersing myself in local culture, understanding myself better, and forsaking electronics and booze. PCVs now live much more comfortably compared to the pioneers in the 60s, and rightly so, as the developing world's standard of living has increased. Today, PC celebrates its 50th birthday: does this mean our work is less challenging?

Leaving my house this morning, one of my stalkers bumped into me. She's a sweet, clever high school student who loves practicing her English and is already engaged to an American Muslim. After we parted, she called my cell from her house phone to remind me that she already misses me.

I headed over to Mediha's house to drop off a photo of a beautiful crochet bracelet that she wants to copy and sell at a national, PC-planned craft fair next month. Yesterday, one of the local photo studios printed out that photo from my USB stick in less than 20 minutes. Mediha also sign-languaged to me that someone in her family passed away last week (while I was in Rabat) from drinking too much paint thinner. He was mourning a fight with his wife and overdid it. We agreed that too much drinking is terrible.

My next stop was Omar the metalworker's shop. Last summer, I loaned him one of the PC library's jewelry books, and--after photocopying all the pages--he wanted to return it to me. The month before, the Tatoua girls and I discussed how we could incorporate Omar's jewelry into their bag creations. I picked up some silver khamisas (Moroccan symbols of protection) that they ordered a couple weeks ago. After analyzing the facebook feedback about their product ideas, the girls are busy completing their handicrafts for the aforementioned craft fair.

My supervisor, the chief of the Artisanat Center, recently received a new fax and printer from the Ministry of Artisanat. Perhaps the one thing he knows I'm absolutely perfect at is English, and he gave me the installation booklets (written in English) a couple weeks ago. We already went over "what is a fax machine?" which I installed--inshallah--correctly.

We spent a couple hours figuring out how to remotely install the new printer to another office's computer. I already looked up French guidelines online for how to do this, but unfortunately, they didn't help. Thankfully, my supervisor was understanding. He'd rather save face and wait for me to figure the connections out, rather than ask for help from a local computer assistance business or from his boss. I hope another techy PCV comes to visit soon. Since he already has two printers in his office, this task isn't so pressing.

Instead of eating lunch at a hanai family's house, as I usually do, I headed home. Even though the sun shone brightly in the blue sky, I felt chilled. Craving curry, I also wanted to finish reading the last couple of chapters in my latest book. After a ...months-long reading hiatus, I'm getting back into books. Isn't that how PCVs are supposed to pass their time? Another PCV shared news that Shakira is coming to Maroc, so us PCVs also pass our time going to free concerts.

In the afternoon, I headed to the post office to pay my rent electronically to my landlord living in Casablanca. I was mildly surprised to see that I received no mail since my last visit. My house is pretty cluttered now with letters/drawings/gifts from the past 3 years...perhaps it's a good thing my mail is slowing down. Besides, unlike in RIM, I get to chat online with my friends and family every night. For some reason, Maroc Telecom allowed me two extra hours of international phone calling this Sunday. Talking so long to two of my fave people was a weekend highlight.

I can't imagine business development work in Maroc without access to technology (and booze). Even for today, a relatively slow day for me. Compared to RIM, ROC provides PCVs with an environment more conducive to development work. It's up to each PCV to take advantage of it. One thing I won't miss from either PC experience is having to hand wash my clothes. Some PCVs and most of my local friends have washing machines, and in the winter time (aka tonight), I'm very jealous of them.

If you readers (aka my mom) haven't noticed, my latest entries were a bit on the down side. I haven't been feeling as energetic as usual, and along with intermittent stabbing chest pain, I gave into the doctor's orders to come to Rabat for an xray and exam. So glad I did: I feel much better now, and I scored new jeans, new books, new fbook friends, and supplies/feedback for my Tatoua girls. BTW, they just finished constructing this bag.

What do you think of the traditional, handmade beads for accent? We need to add value and "something Moroccan" to the simple bag. Do you have any color suggestions or designs? (More photos on facebook). Thanks!