Let's Make a Deal

Last year, a pretty boisterous woman I just met rattled off a list of things she wanted from me: "Give me your skirt!...Give me your bag!...Give me your nose ring!...Give me your hair!...How do you keep your skin white and smooth? Tell me!...Give me your sandals!" PCVs know very well this scenario. I joked with the woman that if I gave her everything that I had, I would be naked and mskina. She told me that she would give me the polka-dot jellaba she was wearing. I told her that I had no boobs and that my gut was much smaller than hers. She replied that we needed to try on each other's clothes first, and she laughed--thinking this was the end of this conversation.

She didn't expect me to take her up on her offer. A fan of polka dots, I would have happily traded my old Gap top and Ross skirt for her jellaba. The hostess, Fatima, made the men leave the salon as we exchanged outfits. Of course, since nakedness is not interesting, all the women stayed in the room as we swapped clothes. Even though the jellaba fit me and my skirt had an elastic waist, the woman whose jellaba I was wearing said it was shameful for me to give her my American (therefore, new and expensive) clothes. I called her bluff, but I was really hoping she was sincere.

Apparently, this woman (Kbira) is friends with my friend's mom's sister, and we met up again by chance every day this week. Kbira started asking again for my clothes, earrings, etc., and I sighed over this all-too-familiar-dialogue. I didn't recognize her until she asked if I still had my black and pink skirt. REDEMPTION! I put my poker face on and nonchalantly, we started chatting about other topics.

Every female PCV reaches a point in her service when local women feel comfortable enough to talk about...sex. Yeah, baby. It's always interesting to me how the women/girls first make sure they are in a confidential area (aka no men and children around) and then breach the topic. Most girls (virgins) I know get giggly over the thought of kissing a boy on the mouth and roll over in nervous laughter when they talk about sex: but their ears are wide open. Some unmarried women have confessed to me that they *(they motion putting their index finger into the other hand's fist)* and how it made them feel. I've heard how some married women lost their virginity to their husbands. Some women think sex is pleasurable, while other women think it's only to please the man and make babies.

For such a hshuma topic, I'm always amazed at how witty women can be as they include laughter into the conversation. One of my favorite things about Morocco is the culture's encouragement and ability to joke around. Depending on my relationship with the women, I may reply in different ways when asked personal questions. With Kbira, I made outlandish statements (ie, I actually have a penis, prostitution is my work, etc.) and we concocted elongated scenarios from them (ie with the penis: hence me not going to the hammam, hence me leaving my family to come to Morocco, hence me never wearing short tops...). Kbira also told me she had a penis, so we were like sisters. At the same time, I could clarify her notions about Americans (like most of us have sex by the age of 13), without singling me out.

Kbira then surprised me by apologizing for her earlier actions. Not knowing what she was referring to, she told me that she brought her polka dot jellaba and wanted me to have it for free. Wow. I remembered she had a jellaba that I liked, but I forgot what it looked like. As I'm typing, my black and pink skirt is ready for her to pick up on my table. I'm excited for summer to come so I can wear the lightweight jellaba.
(Our friend, Rebha, and Kbira wearing jellaba button earrings my ladies made for the upcoming craft fairs.)

I actually opened blogger to tell you a story about my door: it has a mind of its own. Twice, it locked me inside my house for no reason. Passerbyers had to call a locksmith for me. This evening, it only opened after the 4th person tried my key. I've been told to feed my lock olive oil to appease it...If it's a Moroccan door, that should work.

In other news, Fatiha and I found vintage Chanel bags at souk yesterday for less than a dollar each. More awww-worthy, Fatiha's mom took our photo at the marketplace: her first time ever taking a photograph!